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Salvaged Circuitry

Adventures in Tinkering

Logitech G5 Mouse Rewire

So you purchased a Logitech G5 gaming mouse less than a year ago, and the mouse chord is already knotting and peeling off. This guide shows you how to wire in a rubber durable usb mouse chord in your G5 mouse. ****this will most likely void your warranty, so proceed at your own risk

Well, it helps a bunch if you have a broken usb mouse lying around with a rubber cord. I had a broken dell usb mouse with an intact 6 foot usb cable. this was ideal for use in thie project. However, beware of different orders of mouse pinouts...

Before we been cutting up both computer mice, lets establish a list of needed tools and create a workspace. The tools used in thie project are:
-a small flat-head screw driver
-a pair of wire cutters
-an exacto knife
-soldering iron
-a wire stripper
-a pair of needle nose pliers
-electrical tape
-heat shrink wrap
-a weight of some sort (to hold down wire soldering)

The next step is to remove the USB cable from the broken mouse and the logitech mouse. Pay close attention to any differences in the organization of eires in the USB Cable. The best way to do this is show a wire diagram. In this case, I drew a wire diagram for each USB cable, and wrote out the color of each wire. Luckily, each color of one cable coordinated with the color of the other cable. Red was red, white was white, green was green, abd black was ground.

Here's the wire diagram with the actual wires for comparison.

The broken dell mouse is on the left, and the logitech mouse is on the right.

Here's how to disassemble the Logitech G5 mouse. First, note that there are no apparent screws on the bottom of the mouse, just 3 grey mouse feet. Well, that means that you'll have to remove the mouse feet to find out any hidden screws. There are 2 screws under the bottom most mouse pad (removed in the picture) and there is a screw under the label. There is no screw under the smallest mouse pad.

In addition, there is a screw under the top most mouse pad as well. it is off to the right though, so you dont need to remove the entire pad.

Luckily, the logitech mouse has a mouse cable plug, so it should make it a little easier to re wire the cable.

Now cut about an inch of cable from the connector, and wire strip all of the wires by a quarter of an inch.

Before begining to solder anything, cut come heat shrink wrap to an appropriate size, so you'll be able to have a professional looking wiring job., instead of a bundle of electrical tape.

Unfortunately, I had to solder the same cable twice to lengthen it, but regardless, the heatshrink served it's purpose.

Here's the connector with 3 of the 5 wires soldered and heat shrink wraped.

After I soldered each wire, I used a multimeter to check for continuity, just to make sure there was a solid connection. When you set the multimeter to continuity mode, it will make a sound when the leads make contact and (BEEP). Thats how you know that you've made a good connection.Once this was done, I went ahead and applied the heat shrink wrap.

Here's an example of when the numtimeter would go "BEEP".

A close up, just to make sure. Note how I DIDNT do this test on top of the metal plate to my right. this would have defeated the purpose of checking for wire continuity, because the metal plate could have temporarily connected the wires, giving me a false recording. Thus, when you do this, use your hands ot an insulator to test the wires on (wood here).

Here's a shot of the inside of the mouse with the cable installed. It's a little stuffy, but it fits in with a little force.

A closer view of the cable.

Here's a shot of the stock G5 mouse(left) in comparison to the modified one(right). Yes, I own two G5 mouses, this is not a digitally modified image.

Here's the final product. Works just as I wanted, with no cable knots in site.